What is a thumb gusset?

A gusset thumb is a construction technique for knitting the thumb of mittens or fingerless mitts that gives a bit more shape and a roomier fit compared to an Afterthought Thumb or plain thumb hole (like in our Mitts 1 Base pattern).

When to use it

This construction method is nice when you want a little more room in the mitten for the thumb. Since the increases give you more space, it can be a more comfortable fit for some people. It does take a little more work, but it looks really nice on the finished knit!

Doodle patterns that use this technique

The Base Doodle Mitts 2 are made with a thumb gusset. 

INSTRUCTIONS

Materials: You'll need your project + waste yarn and DPNs

Note: If working with COLORWORK during gusset, alter your chart to account for 3 sts used for gusset (i.e. this portion of your Doodle chart repeat is 3 sts fewer; 21 sts, instead of 24). Instructions are written for each hand so that the 3 sts are taken out of the palm section. If doing colorwork during this portion of the mitt, simply catch/carry your non-thumb color through the gusset on each round.

WORK THUMB GUSSET

Work pattern as written up until reaching the base of the thumb.

For LEFT hand:

Set up round: Knit your chart to 3 stitches before the end of round, pm, knit plain to end of round.

Rnd 1: Knit your chart to marker, sm, k1, m1l, knit plain to 1 st before marker, m1r, k1. [2 sts inc’d].

Rnd 2 & 3: Knit your chart as established, knitting gusset stitches plain.

Rep Rnds 1-3 a total of 5 (6, 7) times.  [13 (15, 17) plain sts between gusset markers].

Next round: Knit your chart across all stitches until marker, remove marker, place gusset sts on waste yarn, cast-on 3 sts using backwards loop method, knit your chart to the end of round.

For RIGHT hand:

Set up round: K3 plain, pm, knit your chart to the end of round.

Rnd 1: K1, m1l, knit plain to 1 st before marker, m1r, sm, knit your chart to the end of round [2 sts inc'd].

Rnd 2 & 3: Knit your chart as established, knitting gusset stitches plain.

Rep Rnds 1-3 a total of 5 (6, 7) times. [13 (15, 17) plain sts between gusset markers].

Next round: Knit your chart across all stitches until marker, remove marker, place gusset sts on waste yarn, cast-on 3 sts using backwards loop method, knit your chart to the end of round.

Continue working pattern as written. Once finished, go back to pick up and finish the thumb.

KNIT THUMB

Place all stitches from waste yarn back on smaller needles. Join ribbing color yarn, and pick up and knit the 3 cast-on stitches. [16 (18, 20) sts]

Work twisted ribbing (k1tbl, p1) or preferred ribbing style to end of round.

Continue working in twisted ribbing until thumb measures approx. 0.5 (0.5, 0.75) in [1.5 (1.5, 2) cm] or desired height.

And that's it! Your new mittens are now finished! Check out the image below to compare the thumb gusset (left hand) to the thumb hole (right hand).

Happy Doodling!

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Blog written by Jamie Lomax. Pattern shown is Fingerless Mitts 2 (darker orange) and the lighter orange sample in final photo is Fingerless Mitts 1. Both orange yarns are from Fangirl Fibers.