Have you ever wondered why people take the time to block their knits? Maybe you've tried doing it, but didn't fully understand how or why? Almost every knitting pattern will instruct you to block your finished project, but patterns don't usually take the time to explain what that really means.

This Blocking 101 post helps outline some of the benefits, limitations, cautions, and methods for blocking finished knits - giving you all the tools to finish your next project to perfection!

What is blocking?

Blocking involves getting the yarn wet (either by steaming or soaking) in order to allow the knitting to relax, and to allow different strands of yarn to slide past each other a bit and set into their new shape. There are more steps and techniques, depending on what type of finished knit you are blocking, but the essence is basically that - using water to relax your fabric.

Why do we do it?

To even out the stitches: If your tension wasn't perfect during the knitting process, this step can help make your fabric look more consistent. If you've ever admired someone else's amazingly consistent knit fabric - they definitely blocked it.

To relax the fabric: Blocked knits tend to be softer and have a better drape than fresh-off-the-needles knit fabric.

To flatten out ripples or rolled edges: You can decrease the curl of a stockinette edge, or flatten out imperfect sections of your project,

To let the yarn expand: This effect will be less noticeable with synthetic or superwash yarn, but less processed yarn will often "bloom" during soaking, creating a fuller fabric with less space between stitches.

To fine-tune the final shape: Wet knit fabrics are much stretchier and more malleable than dry knits, and blocking uses this intentionally to allow the knitter to be more intentional with the finished dimensions. A wet sweater will be relaxed enough to pull it into the correct dimensions. Then as the piece dries, it will loose that plasticity and retain the shape it was pinned into.

What blocking probably won't fix:

Some common issues need to be managed during the knitting process, rather than during blocking.

Float tension: If your colorwork floats are too short, blocking won't be enough to make the fabric wider or stretchier than the length of the floats allows.

Large gaps or holes: If your gauge is too loose, or there are gaps in your knitting, blocking probably won't help tighten those up.

Jogs at the start of round: If your stripes or colorwork motifs are very misaligned at the start of each round, swatching probably won't be able to entirely erase that.

 

Things to be mindful of:

Dye transfer: This is uncommon, but some yarns can bleed dye when wet. If your project is all in one color, this is not an issue. But if you have stripes or colorwork that you want to ensure will stay vibrant, consider making and blocking a swatch first to check the colors will stay put.

Accidental felting: If you aren't gentle enough with your wet knit, there is a risk that the fabric may felt. Be very careful not to agitate it too much while it's soaking, and be especially mindful of how much parts of the knit are rubbing against each other to ensure you don't felt or shrink your project. Avoiding super hot water and using a wool-specific soap will also help.

How to block your knit

To watch my quick video reel, see Blocking my Jungle Cowl.

METHOD 1 Wet Blocking

PROS: Better if you need to really manipulate the shape/size

CONS: Needs more time to soak, will take a lot longer to dry

MATERIALS

A container big enough to hold your project, at least one clean towel, pins, and something to pin your project to. You can choose to use a wool-soap or not. Some people find using hair conditioner is helpful if you really need the fibers to stretch.

Step 1: Fill the container with warm (not hot) water, and add soap (if you want). The container should be big enough, and have enough water, that your project can be fully submerged without being too bunched up.

Step 2: Allow your project to soak for at least 15 minutes, or longer for chunkier or bigger projects. It needs time for every fiber to get fully wet.

 

Step 3: Remove your project from the water. Gently squeeze it out just enough so that it is not dripping water (don't wring it out). Lay it out flat on your towel, and roll it up so the knit is fully surrounded by towel. Press down on the outside of the towel roll to squeeze out the remaining excess water. (If your towel soaks through, repeat this process until your project is damp but no longer 'soaking wet')

 

Step 4: Transfer your project to your blocking mat (or other surface you plan to pin it to). Lay it out flat, and start to get it into the final shape you want. If you want to be precise, this can include measuring to ensure it matches the pattern dimensions. The more pins you use, the straighter the edges of your project will be (if they're too spaced out, parts of the project may pull out into points, depending on how much you stretched it).

 

Step 5: Leave the project pinned in place until it is fully dry. If you remove it too soon, it won't stay in the shape you blocked it into. But once it's air dried, your knit is officially finished and ready to enjoy!

METHOD 2 Steam Blocking

PROS: Less time-consuming, less risk of over-stretching your project, can block parts of your project while you're still knitting

CONS: Need to own a steamer, less drastic change in final look compared to wet blocking

MATERIALS

 A steamer or iron, and possibly pins and something to pin your project to

Note: There is a little more variation in how you can use this method, depending on preference. Some people prefer to steam and then pin - others will pin first and then steam - some may just add a little steam to relax the knitting and but then just let it dry flat without pinning.

If you want to PIN FIRST: 

Pin your project into the desired dimensions. Run the steamer (or steam setting on an iron - don't let the iron actually touch your knitting) over your knit, allowing the fabric to become warm and slightly damp. This will allow the fabric to relax a little into its new shape, and then you just wait for it to dry. Ensure your project is fully air dried before unpinning it.

If you want to STEAM FIRST: 

Lay your project out flat. Run the steamer (or the steam setting on an iron - don't let the iron actually touch your knitting) over your knit, allowing the fabric to become warm and slightly damp. You can then pull and pin your project into the desired dimensions, as the warmth and moisture will have helped the fabric relax a little. Ensure your project is fully air dried before unpinning it.

 

Happy Doodling!

 

Blog co-written by Jamie Lomax and Grey Lundy. Yarn featured is from Yarnaceous Fibers and Fangirl Fibers, and pattern shown is 2024 Summer Doodle Mini Set.